It Was Just Amazing!

It has been 4 weeks since I crossed the Grand Canyon on foot - I made it!  As of my last blog post, I wasn't sure I'd be able to do it because a leg/ankle issues.  Today, I can look back and say I am glad I didn't pass up the opportunity to scratch something off my bucket list.  I won't bother to share full details of a 24+ mile journey through a land sculpted by time - my highlights are likely not yours.  But I do have a few reflections if you ever decide to go:

 

1. So, so, so glad I didn't run across the canyon. It would have been just for the sake of saying I did it, but I would have missed the beauty of all that was around me.  I went slow, I took lots of pictures, I kept saying to myself "I can't believe I am doing this!"   The is beauty in the journey, not the destination.  Should be a slogan on a t-shirt or something.
2. I shouldn't have read so much on the internet in the days leading up to my crossing about other people's experiences making the same journey.  I wanted to be thoroughly prepared. I learned a lot about what lied ahead, but it wasn't without causing trepidation about whether I could do it.  As I tell my kids and others - you gotta believe in yourself.  I had planted too many self-doubts, which were unfounded upon looking back.  Plan smart, be smart, know your limits and all will be good. I was made for that trip!
3. When presented with a snake in the of the trail, facing you and blocking your path, it helps to have a hiking stick to poke it away.  Wasn't my stick - I was just fortunate to have some other hikers coming the other way who can lend a quick poke when I needed it. Have I mentioned before I hate snakes.
4. Hike North Rim to South Rim.  That North side is so much more scenic and it was great to experience it while I was fresh and not just ready to be done with the hike.  What views!
5. Consider whether doing a 5 mile hike two days before you go, and then a 3 hour mule ride the day before is smart.  I did both.  Was worried about being sore in the wrong places (unfounded).  BTW - Mules are COOL!  They are so sure footed on switchbacks down into the canyon - our family loved it. Of course, one wrong step....
6. Camping in the Grand Canyon...WHO DOES THIS IN THE SUMMER?   I passed three campgrounds along the way.  Talk about desolate and exposed.  And HOT!  Definitely wouldn't be like car camping....and I bet all the snakes surround your tent at night!
7. Taking 3 - 4 days to hike across is at least 2 - 3 days too many.  Most books recommend that - to be safe. Hogwash!  That makes for some short days, then hanging at the campgrounds.  See point 6.
8. Damn, that was just plain fun! Me and mother nature and hardly another soul around (literally).  As far as anyone knows, I did the whole thing barefoot, while walking backwards, with snow up to my chest.....see dad, even I have stories to pass to my kids!
9. And as a sign it was in the cards for me to do this, here are two daily quotes that came to me in the two days leading up to the hike.  It was meant to be.

 

Ok, those are the reflections, here are a few details just for fun (and a chance to put in more pictures).

 



OMG!



If you read my last blog, you knew this all came about because I scored a last minute reservation to stay overnight at Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the canyon near the Colorado river.  So the plan was to hike 14 miles one day, rest up, and come out the next morning.  Uh, problem.....

 

The problem is me. I don't know when to stop. I bore easily and can't sit still.  I arrived at Phantom Ranch at noon - it there isn't much to it.  What was I going to do for the next 10 hours or so til bed.  It was nearly 110 degrees already.  As I neared Phantom Ranch, I started thinking bigger and making some mental calculations around time, distance and fitness.

 

 



I had arrived.  Or had I?

Then I did what all stupid, macho men would...

• I bought a postcard at the bottom at a tiny Catina to mail to my wife and kids that basically said "I am here. I am bored. I am coming out.  I'll surprise you in a few hours! Love, Me (macho-man).  Then I dropped it in a leather mail bag for a mule to take out the next day.
• I bought lunch.  A bagel.  Pretty slim pickings for food choices at the ranch. And filled up my camelback with water.  And soaked my head and bandanna as well.
• I let the ranch team know that I wasn't checking in or staying, but was going to hike out.  I asked them to give my bunk to someone else who might need it. All expenses prepaid. I hope someone got to use it.
• And off I went...

Sunset at GC, during a small canyon fire

Not having a plan to go across in one day really played in my favor. If I had thought I would do this, I would have probably shaved two hours off my morning time, but not had as much fun in the early part of the day. 

 

There was only one couple that passed me in the same direction on the hike down all morning.  They had cooled off in Bright Angel Creek during lunch and were getting ready to hike out to the South Rim as well, but I started a few minutes before they did.  Of course, I stopped to take more pictures and they quickly caught me, so I filed in behind them and started chatting with them. Turns out they were more macho than me.  Both were from Darien, Illinois.  He was an Ironman competitor, and together they had both hiked across the Grand Canyon the day before.  Yeah. Two 24 mile crossings in two day.  And they weren't showing any signs of tiredness.  Time to tighten up my shoe-laces, get a grip on the poles and power hike if I wanted to stay with them.

 

I was glad I did!

 

Before we went 1/4 mile, we passed a National Park ranger who asked if we were hiking out.  Yes sir.   He questioned our judgment and said it was hot.  We understand - this isn't for the faint of heart (and I read enough internet articles to know he was going to say this).   We said goodbye and went on our way. Bet he comes across people like us all the time.

Crossing the Colorado River

5000 feet uphill out, with the sun beating on us made for a long afternoon.  For the first time my head really started to sweat, and it didn't just evaporate immediately.  But, we had milestones along the way to look forward to. Crossing the Colorado River on a foot bridge.  Seeing river rafters from a vantage point higher up.  Stopping at Indian Gardens campground to refuel....

 

...and then realizing at Indian Garden that I was running out of gas and I still had 4.5 miles to go, uphill (barefoot and backwards in the snow).  I was beginning to slog along and slowing down my trekking companions (or at least the husband - I think wife was on my side in that this wasn't a sprint!).  At the 3 mile shelter we rested for nearly 40 minutes (I needed it, but was intentional about staying longer to allow the sun to dip a bit behind the canyon so we could hike in shade).  We found out here from someone that a rescue helicopter had just landed there on a sand helipad about 30 minutes earlier to extract two hikers who were not completely with it.  Apparently they were fit, younger people who didn't take in enough water or electrolytes during the day and paid the price.  We saw the helicopter fly past us earlier - now we knew why.

In the spirit of full disclosure, I looked up extraction insurance during my research just to understand what might happen if I got sick/injured.  Didn't go with it - plan smart, be smart.  I wouldn't have started the hike out without knowing I could do it and had the right supplies with me, and plenty of daylight to work with.  I was tired, but had my senses and just needed to keep plodding along.

 

Slow going up Bright Angel Trail

To wrap this up, the last 4.5 miles out took about 3 hours with a fair number of short rest breaks.  Climbing out the last part of the South Rim after 20 miles was exhausting, but as I saw the rim nearing, I got a second wind.  My companions didn't leave me behind even when I urged them to go on while I took a few breaks.  They said that you don't hike with someone for 10 miles only to leave them behind the last few.  I was grateful to have the company and to share the joy with someone when we reached the top.

 

So now to find the family!  My wife dropped me off at the North Kaibab Trailhead at 5:45 am in 40 degree temperatures and then drove with the kids 200+ miles to sight see on the South Rim during the day.   I exited on Bright Angel Trail 12 hours later in 90 - 100 degree temps and planned to surprise them at the lodge where we had reservations, since they thought they wouldn't see me until the next day.

 

I texted them and said "hey, I managed to get reception at the bottom, where are you?". (sneaky, right)  No response.  Darn. I called (using my magic reception), no answer. Darn.  So I started walking to our lodge (note - after a long days hike, the last thing you want to do is walk another 3/4 mile to get to rest).   But, after a 1/2 mile I saw the GC Shuttle stop and a bus waiting and climbed on (dirty and smelly I am sure), so they could drive me 1/4 mile to the lodge lobby (I know, I was a slacker).

See note at bottom of board!

The lodge clerk told me my family had checked in already, made me provide proof of identity (just give me the damn key!!!) and made me walk another 1/4 mile to our room (isn't there a golf cart to take me???).  I saw our car in the parking lot. I went to the door and listened (very stalkerish). No sounds.  I was going to video my surprise hello, but was disappointed that nobody was in the room. Huh.

 

So I sat down in a chair next to a table and thought, now what. 

 

Not 1 minute later the door begins to open. I couldn't even react quickly enough to get my camera ready.   In walks my daughter first, and I may have scared the daylights out of her.  Picture a partially lit room, and a shadowy figure at a table that you aren't expecting to see.  Just like at the movies - all that was missing was the creepy music. Yikes!

 

But it only took a moment for her to realize who it was.  The shout of "daddy" made my day all worth it, and for us to swap stories of our day.

 

AND THAT....IS WHAT I DID ON JUNE 6, 2014!    Just amazing.

 

 Pause....And Dream With Me

 

Companion every step (KEIYH)



What is it that you have always wanted to do, but haven't made the time for?  What is stopping you?

 

I still think vividly about my journey.  I don't know if I would do the whole think again.  Definitely the 1st part - it was that breathtaking.  But I dream for my next adventure already.  Next month, I plan on participating in my second TransRockies run.  Crossing the GC on foot by hiking made me realize that if my leg issues aren't better, that I shouldn't worry.  Walking 120 miles over 6 days wouldn't be the worst thing. I think I'd see some amazing things I missed in 2010 when I did run. But I am now ok with that.  I think this gave me great perspective that if I ever am able to pursue some of the longer distances I want to try, it is acceptable to walk.  No need to be a super macho man.

And just like at the GC, I'll have my wife waiting for me each day at the TRR finish line, as she is volunteering for the event and has been assigned the duty of finish line food and drinks!  Not a bad gig.  "Honey, I'll have a cold beer (likely Gatorade) and some chocolate!"  And what other competitors will be a kiss at the finish line (all dirty and smelly!)

 

Look how far I've come

The Final Word.

 

Before heading to Arizona on our vacation, my wife insisted I make an appointment with the foot doctor to find out what was causing bad shin splints, ankle soreness and hip problems.  Walking didn't seem to bother me (no issues on GC hike whatsoever), but running was a problem.  I secured an appoint a few days after our return and found out that my right leg/foot wasn't the problem.  My left foot was.  My right was only compensating to deal with issue.

 

Ah.

 

That diagnosis was three weeks ago. Prescription - see a Physical Therapist, get shoe inserts/supports, and stretch more. Apparently my lack of stretching for 46 years is catching up to me.  Tight calves = bad boy.  Who would've thought?

 

Last week my therapist did dry needling in my leg. Think acupuncture.  Interesting.  He's had me stretching daily, and I've been good about it...mostly.  I hate hamstring stretches almost as much as I hate snakes.  But, I am thinking big picture dreams, and the Rocky Mountains are calling in about 37 days.  And after that...maybe a longer run....  Leg isn't as bad as it was and I am building up some miles again on the trails.  TRR here I come, ready or not.

 

My dream is alive, although it may not be like I originally planned.  Funny how life works out that way.  But I have great perspective now.

 

My awesome support crew...they believe in me!  Thank you!!

 

See the resemblance? It's uncanny.